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fredrikstrang

Climber 🏔Motivational speaker 🗣Personal trainer 💪 Mail: fredrik(at)strang.se #mypassionsigma #climbing #lasportiva #petzl #winnersdaremore👊

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This is it. We are pushing now for a 3 days intense summit push of K2 without supplemental O2. This is our only shot this season. I don’t have time to guide you through the mathematical analysis of this decision but it’s been some heavy duty days weighing the pros and cons. No update on instagram till we are back but status update on wee.facebook.com/fredrik.strang Wish us good luck! #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool #summit #karakorum #granitbiten

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Showing off my ”heavy-metal” sign with my fingers on this 360 image on top of Broad Peak 8047m. Notice K2 at the top of the image and G4 close to my climbing partner @roeske. Can’t help it but sometimes during the long hours on a summit push a song keeps repeating itself. This time it was AC/DC ”it’s a long way to the top if you wanna rock ’n roll”. What tune appears in your head during long strengeous hours? Well, we are resting in BC, drying wet downsuits, sleepingbags and tents, washing clothes, eat like we never seen food before and checking weather for our primary objective - K2. Acclimatization is over. Lets turn up the gear a bit and hope for a summitpush within on week 🙏 #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool #summit #karakorum #granitbiten

8

If only Swedish media showed a fragrance of interest in stories like why I endured 3 separate expeditions, overcoming the loss of dear friends passings and spending thousands of hours training to climb these peaks instead of reporting about scandals, crimes and silicone tits than perhaps a tiny bit of patriotism and teachings about preserverance would help Sweden grow instead of feeding the instant gratifications and short-cuts that is overrepresented. In 2012 I did three separate summit attempts on Broad Peak, helping building the route, swimming in an ocean of snow and fighting harsh winds. Two of my friends from that expedition died the year after. In 2017 I was 17 vertical meter short of the summit. Bad weather the most contributing factor and once realized I retrived my summit claim (note that none of the others that ”summited” that day has retrived their false claim). 16th of July I did get to the true summit. Was Broad Peak really that important? No, but the process in never giving up is. Rome was certainly not built in a day so stop chasing the short-cuts and fast exits. Build your Rome. Big dreams requires big efforts. Video: summit of Broad Peak 8047 m no supplemental O2. Due to extremely slow internet, see it as a miracle that you can see 9 sec video. Longer ones will be sent when I’m back to the internet addicted society :) #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool #summit #karakorum #granitbiten #sverige #sweden

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Summit of Broad Peak yesterday with my climbingpartner @roeske at 10:30 AM local time with iconic K2 as a backdrop and the long summitridge leading up to the true, main & real summit of Broad Peak 8047m. Most who knew me knows the fight that this giant rock has put up for me. More about that tomorrow. Now rest :) #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool #summit #karakorum #granitbiten #sverige #sweden

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Sun is setting. Broad Peak turns into flames. You can see our route clearly in the image. In 3 days from now on you will know how it all went :) #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool

6

Playing around with my insta360 close to C-2 some days ago. Spot Mitre Peak if you can! Today we are packing for our Broad Peak summit push. Wish us good luck! #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool #insta360

18

Weather has been forgiving the last week. Perhaps success favors those who are patient? So many days I have stared at this peak, climbed on it and listened to when to turn around. So few of all these days have you revealed yourself in your splendor instead hidden behind a sea of clouds. On Saturday we make our last acclimatization trip. Trying to summit Broad Peak on Monday. Then we will be ready, but will you dear K2? #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool

10

Final 100 vertical meters before C-3 on Broad Peak. Long stretch with heavy loads two days ago. BC to C-3 in one push as we hoped to go for the summit the day after. Too much snow made us decide to conserve energy and acklimatize for our real objective, K2. There are too many things I’d like to share but we’ll cover that another time. Back in BC now to charge our batteries :) #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool

2

Looking out of our ”window” at C-2 during our acklimatization lap. Spectacular Masherbrum hides itself behind some clouds in the distance. Try to spot it! Sometimes Karakorum does show its rare nice weather mercy. #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool

9

Stuck in BC. Really there are two types of weather in Karakoram. Bad and worse unless you don’t have won a lottery. Always be ready to move if it clears up. We are standby. We are hungry. We are motivated. We are patient. #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool

6

Some people wonder what we are doing on Broad Peak (8047m) when K2 is our objective. The reason is threefolded for me. First of all BP is fast way to acklimatize for K2. Secondly BP summitwindow is normally earlier than K2. Thirdly, I was about 17 vertical meter short from the summit last year... This great spot is at C-1 BP on a pinnacle where I am pointing at the actual summit of K2. Yeaa, its way up there. Photocredit @davidroeske #sigmak2018 #marmot #lasportiva #petzl #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #smartwool

4

Insta360 image halfway to C-1 on Broad Peak yesterday. K2 above my extraterrestial large head :) and partner @davidroeske behind my shoulder as we enjoy some rare rain/snow-free climbing. However, rain/snow promtly ended our acklimatization plan this morning as one inch predicted snow became 8 inches with several unpleasant avalanches. So we are back in BC again praying HARD for the weathergods to show mercy 🙏 #sigmak2018 #lasportiva #marmot #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak #insta360 #360 #360image #k2

9

Tomorrow morning we are going to C-1 on Broad Peak. Acklimatization is full on. Inshallah we will make high-point at C-3 at 7100m. #sigmak2018 #lasportiva #marmot #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak

20

We are at Broad Peak BC! Picture was taken yesterday at the giant intersection Concordia with the spectacular view of K2, BP, G4, Mitre Peak to mention a few of the peaks that makes your heart rumble and your mind gear up a few notches in focus. Weather has been interesting. Entire Baltoro has had a constant rainy/snowy lid, concealing the views on the way in and making sure that almost nothing stayed dry. When I was here 10 years ago you could easily get off route on the Baltoro glacier but now, just follow the donkey shit and you end up at Concordia. Much of the portrering jobs has been taken over by donkeys and the increasing numbers of tourists occasionally creates too high demand on portering why also donkeys is resourceful. I only wish that authorities could maintain the most needed toilets at the campsites instead as now just leaving them to rust thus Baltoro has become a common toilet. To quote a guide after asking where the toilets gone, ”everywhere toilet”. Ohh, great! So instead of improving the national park the authorities are ruining this prestine area leaving it to nothing but a ticking bomb till tourist one day will have had enough walking over human feces. Not the most chaming information that you maybe had suspected but why continue living in a barbie world when the worlds ecology needs maintanence? #sigmak2018 #lasportiva #marmot #bethard #winnersdaremore #c2verticalsafety #k2 #broadpeak

6

#sigmak2018 starts today! First stop for @roeske and me is Askole, then tomorrow we are embarking on the 5-6 days trek to Broad Peak BC. There we will acclimatize and hopefully summit then directly to K2 👊🏻👍 May the weather/conditions God me merciful 🙌🌈 #bethard #winnersdaremore #lasportiva #marmot #c2verticalsafety #petzl #smartwool #k2 #broadpeak at Skardu

15

We are going that way! Navigating through rapids in the Sadpara area; an area that exhibit water, something that is scarce here. There was very little snow this season in the Karakorams. Denis Urubko witnessed that on his K2 winter attempt and the Sadpara dam above Skardu that provides electricity to the community is almost dried out. How this will affect our climb and the conditions is hard to say but apparently the weather is much cooler and more humid now than my previous visits to the Karakoram. Several days with snow in Broad Peak BC has been reported and my concern is not so much the snow but if it starts heating up without a protective layer of snow, loose rocks (which becomes more frequent) is a challenge and a potential threat. People used to say, well, there is nothing we can do about the weather. Phu... if you know someone who still think climate change is a hoax, then ask that person: do you also disagree with quantum physics, that spacetime can bend and curve, that a particle can be at two locations at once and that a cat can be both dead and alive? That person probably don’t disagree on these crazy properties in the universe that science has proven why then is it so hard to accept that man not only can affect the weather but is also causing climate change? Oh, I forgot. Maybe that person is a FF (fossile fuel) lobbyist? #sigmak2018 #marmot #bethard #winnersdaremore #lasportiva #k2 #climatechange at Skardu

7

Happy midsummer eve from Pakistan! Great to get out and run uphill after 2 days of travelling. #sigmak2018 #bethard #winnersdaremore #lasportiva #marmot #c2verticalsafety #granitbiten #smartwool #skardu at Skardu

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